Salmon isn’t exactly a fish that swims anywhere near the Mediterranean or Aegean, but it’s a fish that Greeks have embraced, both fresh and smoked. It pairs beautifully with the thick Greek yogurt that has conquered the world. In this recipe, I mix in a little katiki, a grainy, sour, yogurt-like cheese from mainland Greece that is one of several such traditional cheeses. If you can’t find katiki in your local Greek food shop, you can substitute it with quark, or even with a little cream cheese and mascarpone. Try an ouzo with this, or, better yet, one of Greece’s delicious sparkling wines.