Marinate the rooster parts in the red wine for at least 2 hours or up to 8.

Remove from the marinade, reserve the marinade, and lightly dust the rooster parts with a little seasoned flour.

Heat 3 to 4 tablespoons of olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat and brown the rooster, turning it with kitchen tongs to color on all sides. Remove and set aside.

Replenish the oil in the pan and add the cook onion, cooking it, stirring on occasion, over medium heat until it begins to turn golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in the cubes of cured pork or Canadian bacon or pancetta and stir until browned. Stir in the garlic.

Next, stir in the tomato paste. Add the browned rooster parts back to the pot, seasoning to taste with salt. Pour the marinade back into the pot, adding more wine as needed to come up just below the surface of the meat. Add the carrot, whole onions, orange zest, bay leaves, thyme, rosemary and black peppercorns.

Cover the pot, reduce heat, and simmer for about 2 hours, until the rooster or chicken is very tender and the meat practically falling off the bone. If using mushrooms, add them after the rooster or chicken has cooked for an hour or so, and is tender but not quite done. About 8 minutes before removing from heat, stir the dried oregano.

Serve the rooster with Greek noodles, called hilopites, and a generously grating of sharp cheese, such as Kefalotyri or dried myzithra.