One of the most curious sights at the Athens Central Market and at itinerant farmers’ markets are the egg-vendors, erstwhile entrepreneurs who sell nothing but…eggs. If anything attests to the importance of the egg on the Greek table it is this commercial specialization. (That’s not to say, of course, that you can’t find eggs in cartons at the local supermarket.
While eggs don’t really play a prominent role on the table, as a main ingredient in their own right, they are used everywhere:
In sauces: The most famous Greek sauce is without doubt the avgolemono, or egg-and-lemon sauce that is but a silky liaison used to enrich all sorts of dishes, from stews made with meat and greens to fish and vegetable stews, to soups, such as the well-known Greek chicken soup with rice and avgolemono (kotosoupa avgolemono) and a similar fish-based soup (psarosoupa avgolemono). The sauce is also served with several stuffed dishes, especially cabbage and grape-leave dolmathes (rolled, rice-stuffed leaves).
As a light meal: The egg, nature’s most perfect food, also makes for a perfectly easy and fast meal in Greece and there are many recipes for omelettes and other similar dishes. Among them are:
Kayiannas or Strapatsatha. This is a kind of scrambled-egg and tomato dish encountered all over the country. The former is how it is called in the Peloponessos.
Froutalia. This is surely one of the great regional Greek egg dishes, and a specialty of Andros and Tinos. Basically, it is a thick, slowly-cooked (stovetop) omelet filled with potatoes and local sausage, but there are many other variations, too.
Sfoungatto.Basically, this is a baked omelet, oftentimes seasoned with fresh herbs such as dill and studded with green vegetables such as zucchini or wild Greek asparagus.
Htipito AvgoOne of the great dishes of Greek village childhood! It is made by beating a raw egg with several spoonfuls of sugar in a cup. The result is a luscious, creamy, breakfast, eaten with bread and milk!
As a Binder
Eggs are used to add density and texture to the fillings of many savory pies, especially cheese pies.
Visit my online shop for a wide selection of Greek single-origin artisanal foods, from honeys to wild herbs, olives, olive oils, pistachios, heirloom grain products, fruit preserves and more.
Diane Kochilas is one of the world’s foremost experts on Greek and Mediterranean cuisine. She is the host, creator and co-producer of My Greek Table, the award-winning 13-episode per season cooking-travel show about Greece that airs nationally on Public Television. The series is in its third season.
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